Cat carrier training part 3

Cat carrier training part 2

Watch Part 3.

Cat carrier training Part 1

Watch Part 2.

Removing a Tick

It is important to check your cat for ticks. The longer it is attached the more likely that it can cause problems.

Ticks tend to attach to the sensitive areas, often hidden in the "armpits", ears, skin folds etc.

Your vet is the best person to remove ticks as she is more experienced. However whoever removes one there is always the risk of their being parts left behind and a local reaction at the site.

The best technique to remove a tick, is the by twisting rather than puling.

Several types of tick removers are available on Amazon. I use the O'TOM Tick Twister. They are durable and come in a pack of two for small and larger ticks.

Tapeworms in a Cat

The link between tapeworm and fleas is so interesting.

If your cat has fleas they must also be treated for tapeworm (and vice versa)
Read more about tapeworm and their treatment HERE.

An example of normal feline play behavior

This is an interesting video.
It is not always easy to determine if cats are playing or fighting, In the case the cats are playing.

Tapeworm

Tapeworms are so called because they are flat and long, essentially they look like a piece of tape and can be more than a foot long!

THANKFULLY,  we rarely see the entire adult. It is attached to the intestinal wall with hook-like suckers. Segments break off and are passed in the faeces. These segments contain a large number of eggs.

The commonest ways a pet gets tapeworms are from

• fleas
• eating raw meat (e.g. prey-a rodent, rabbit, or bird) or 
• by eating another animals faeces

Your vet can diagnose tapeworm by actually seeing the segments or by analysing a sample of faeces.

Some cats will bite or lick their bum, or drag their hind quarters across the floor (scoot) due to the parasite.

Tapeworm infections can spread to humans, especially to children. 

The good news is that cats can be treated successfully for this problem. Your vet will advise on a suitable product and on the frequency of treatment. Tablets, injections and spot on treatments are available to treat for tapeworm.

Note: Most pet shop/supermarket products do not treat tapeworm.

All cats and dogs should be treated regularily for tapeworm. They should be treated even more frequently if

• you see the tapeworm segments in his faeces or stuck to the hair around the bum
• Your pet "at" his bum (scooting, licking, and chewing)
• Your cat ears raw meat, hunts or scavenges
• Your cat has fleas
• Your pet has contact with children.

Note. Different parasite control products treat different things. While you may use a product regularily it may not treat tapeworm. 

Prevention.

• Regular flea treatment.
• Clean up faeces
• Ensure children get into the  a habit of washing their hands after rubbing a cat or dog.
• Regular, good quality, broad spectrum parasite prevention.

Learn more about tapeworm in this VIDEO.

Cat therapy: relaxing feline mindfulness!

Just a nice calming kitten video.

The 3 Most Common Cat Behavior Problems Solved

Key Points

• Cats can be trained.
• Behaviour problems are a common reason for its to be rehired
• Problems can be solved by positive reinforcement
• The 3 commonest behavioural problems are

1. scratching furniture
2. scratching our arm/leg, if play freeze, direct play to toy, or aggression
3. elimination outside the box

Cats Need Scratching Posts

Too short
Too wobble
Wrong surface

Tips to cat proof your home

How to stop your cat from knocking ornaments off surfaces

We stock high quality puzzle feeders & interactive toys from small UK business Ruffle Snuffle. We recommend the handmade Ruffle Snuffle mats as they provide a challenge difficult enough to keep your cat entertained for as long as needed!

All Ruffle Snuffle Mats are handmade with high quality fleece, you simply hide treats amongst the knots of fleece and your cat works out how to access the food by rolling it over, batting it and snuffling with their noses!

Picking a scratching device

Note not every cat likes to scratch a post (i.e. a vertical device), some like  Some of them prefer to scratch things lying on the floor (i.e. horizontal devices) this is why i have used the term scratching device as opposed to a scratching post.


When buying a scratching device there are several factors to consider. Don't just buy the first one you see.


Surface (carpet, cardboard, natural wood, corrugated cardboard, panels of sisal twine)
Vertical of horizontal
Sturdy. Cats will scratch vigorously if it wobbly or unstable the cat will not like it.

• vertical posts must have a wide base, 
• horizontal devices need to have a heavy base 

Size, depends on size and age of cat-to allow the cat to scratch at full stretch

The choice depends on the space available.  In a small space, panels can be fixed to the wall.

• vertical posts must be tall enough to allow scratching at full stretch
• horizontal

Location. It should be located in an area your cat frequents and where he scratches at present

Cats often scratch after waking up so it should be located near his bed

Number of posts-In multi-cat households it is advisable to provide one scratching post per cat (plus an additional one for choice) positioned in different locations.

Design Commercially available scratching posts range from a basic single upright structure to an elaborate floor-to-ceiling modular unit that provides many opportunities for play, exercise and resting as well as a variety of surfaces to scratch. 

Other factors to help attract a cat to a new post
Some commercially available posts are impregnated with catnip.
catnip
flyway


the best advice is to try a few and pick one he likes

This is a herb that is attractive to some cats and its presence will often draw attention without much effort.
Once the cat has approached the scratching post a simple predatory-type game (involving a piece of string attached to a feather, for example) around the base will encourage the claws to make contact with the surfaces. Often this will be sufficient to encourage further visits. If the scratching post has several levels then placing treats on the modular surfaces may encourage the less playful cat to investigate.

covered with carpet there is no evidence that the cat's scratching habits

1. if he uses the sofa - want a vertical one
look where the damage is done high up need a post at least that tall
2. if he uses the carpet want a horizontal one
Many cats target the lower step on staircases and scratch horizontally whilst lying down. Place low tack double-sided adhesive tape over the damaged areas (warn the family not to tread on it!) and provide a scratching area nearby. If the cat grips the stair on opposite sides of the right angle, providing both vertical and horizontal scratching surfaces, it is important that the alternative offers the same opportunity. For example a breeze block covered in carpet will be heavy enough to resist the pull of the scratching action, can be used for both vertical and horizontal scratching and is easily located nearby.

3. if he uses wooden surfaces like door frames or banisters
it is important to remove all cues- of the scratch marks by rubbing down with a fine sand paper and treating the area with a thick layer of furniture polish once the surface is smooth again. Suitable posts or scratching panels should be located nearby.
If the area is not ideal for a free-standing scratching post on a permanent basis then it can be relocated slowly (an inch at a time!) to a more convenient position once it is being used regularly.

4. if he uses wallpaper
a sheet of plastic can be placed over the damaged area
This surface will be unattractive to scratch since it is smooth and it is also easily cleaned to remove any scent deposits. Double-sided adhesive tape can also be used over the affected area if the wallpaper is sufficiently damaged to require replacing.
Whichever deterrent is used it is essential to provide a vertical scratching panel of a similar height nearby.






cat scratchers

vertical

horizontal


Creme Brulee the Cat playing with Bergan Turbo Scratcher Cat Toy Very cute!








<div class="player-unavailable"><h1 class="message">An error occurred.</h1><div class="submessage"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KaeGQ35m404" target="_blank">Try watching this video on www.youtube.com</a>, or enable JavaScript if it is disabled in your browser.</div></div>

One of the most important things that we can do to improve the quality of an indoor cats life is to increase the frequency and quality of play time. Without making the effort to entice your cats to be active cats they may not bother. Plus its lots of fun for everyone.

As interactive cat toys go this one is very simple but super.

To find out more click HERE.

To get a PetzTrendz Cat Scratch Chaser - Scratcher Plus Toy for your cat click HERE.

STRESS

cats are v adaptable
but they have unique needs
our homes are designed for us not them
if we make our cats happier we will be happier
happy cat happy owner

climbing is best way to survey territory and look for food

we want them to be confident in their territory so they can scratch and climb

Our unique feline companions

In the wild, cats hunt for food, hide from predators (often by climbing), and defend their home territories. 
Indoors, these behaviors may look hostile (biting and scratching) or spiteful (climbing, spraying, marking), and we may not like them. 
The keys to enjoying cats in our lives are to provide acceptable outlets for their natural behaviors and reduce their exposure to threats.

Cats are unique in a number of ways
Cats do not have a daily sleep-wake cycle and may want to sleep or play at any hour of the day or night.
Dogs and primates (humans) are cats’ natural predators. 
By understanding this, we can learn to “get along.”
Cats are not a pack species such as dogs and humans. 
This makes them more independent and self-contained and also means they learn differently, which can put them at risk for con ict with others.

These checklists describe the indoor resources cats need to live happy and healthy lives. 

We developed this resource checklist to help you learn what indoor-housed cats need to enjoy their lives with you. Essential resources include:

When making changes, start with what is easiest!
What you can do to keep them happy and healthy
   ☐ Fresh food and water
☐ Litter boxes
Scratching and climbing structures 
 Rest and relaxation, and safety
☐ Play opportunities
☐ Informed owners


Because all cats are unique, we can tell what works for most cats, but not what will work for your cat. Please use these checklists to get you started, and then have fun exploring what works best for you, your cat, and your situation.

Permethrin kills cats

Read more about permethrin toxicity here.

Normal Urination

This video shows normal urination (watch from 1.12 minutes)

There are several components to the normal process of urination

• The cat will sniff carefully before passing urine
• The cast squats to urinate
• He passes a large volume (a full adult bladder holds 30mls of urine)
• There process is not painful
• The cat sniff the urine afterwards
• The cat will engage in an active attempt to bury it afterwards by scratching over and around it.

Read more about normal urination.

Cats like to urinate where there is urine
Cats don't like to defecate where there is faeces.

Read about urine spraying/marking.

Read about how to deal with the problem of a cat that urinates outside the box.

How Your Vet Collects a Sterile Urine Sample From Your Pet

Click HERE to find out how you can collect a urine sample from your cat at home.

How to collect your cat's urine

Note: 1. Katkor  and similar products are also available to buy from Amazon.

2. Normal urine in the bladder should be sterile. The sample collected in this way is not sterile since the urine has to pass via the urethra. This sample is useful for analysis but your vet may need a sterile sample to rule out infection.  Click HERE to see how your vet collects a sterile urine sample.

Normal Urination

There is so much  talk about cats "peeing outside the box" or "having difficulty urinating" i thought it worth first discussing normal urination.

Watch a video showing the normal process.

Our house cats evolved from desert dwelling felines so their kidneys have certain modifications to conserve water.

How often should a cat urinate?

On average a cat will urinate twice a day. But there really is no such thing as an average cat!
Getting to know what is normal for your cat is important.
If he normally passes urine 3 times a day and suddenly this increases or decreases significantly it is worth taking him to your vet with a fresh urine sample for analysis.

Non-medical actors that can affect urine output

• water intake, 
• heat and humidity, 
• type of food fed.

Possible reasons for increased frequency

• urinary tract infection, 
• diabetes, 
• chronic kidney disease, and 
• behavioral problems.

Possible reasons for decreased frequency

• blocked bladder, 
• dehydration, and
• acute kidney failure.

Note all are very serious and can be life-threatening.

Click HERE to learn how to collect a urine same from your cat.

I would recommend scooping the litter tray after each litter box use. Read more litter box tips to reduce problems HERE.


Appearance, smell and effort
Again getting to know what is normal for your cat is really important.

In general healthy, neutered, adult cats produce pale, yellow, clear, slightly odoured urine.
There should be no blood in normal urine and there should be little or no visible effort involved in passing urine.
He should not vocalise/cry when passing urine.

Modern litters make is difficult to changes in urine appearance and smell but if there is a significant change taking your cat to the vet with a fresh sample is the safest way of determining the significance of the change.

How to keep your cat cool in warm weather

Key Points

• Provide shade e.g. boxes
• Use fans to circulate cool air
• Place protected ice packs in your cast favourite locations to further cool the air
• Use sun screen
• Keep out of mid day sun
• Maximise water intake- variety of bowls and locations, get a cat drinking fountain
• Be especially vigilant with older, young or sick cats
• If worried speak to your vet

Find out more on keeping cats cool in warm weather.

What to do about a cat scratching your furniture

Key Points
1. Don't punish your cat for this behaviour.This will make the problem worse.
2. Scratching has purpose, he needs to do it.
 (The 2 main functions of scratching are scent making and nail care!)
3.  Give him a place to scratch that he likes, Make sure it is stored and in his preferred location.
4. Make the place you don't want him to scratch unattractive to him.

Learn more about how to stop your cat scratching your furniture HERE.

Urine Marking or Spraying

Key Points

• Do not punish your cat. This will make the problem worse.
• Any cat may spray (male or female, neutered or entire)
• It could be caused by a medical problem so take your cat to the vet
• A common cause is stress, often stress from other cats

Learn more about why your cat is spraying and what to do about it.

Urinating outside the litter box

Key Points

• Do not punish your cat. This could make the problem worse
• It could be caused by a medical problem so take him to the vet first

Click HERE to learn more about why your cat is urinating outside the litter box and HERE to learn what to do about it.

Stress in cats

Stress has been identified as a significant component of (or trigger for) most common cat behaviour problems and some common diseases. 

Cats do not show their emotions as overtly as some other species and tend to withdraw and become quiet rather than 'act out' their anxieties. It therefore becomes necessary for owners to appreciate the subtle signs of stress in their own cats in order to provide the best possible care.

Is all stress bad?

Several physiological systems within the cat’s body regulate stress, predominantly the HPA axis (hypothalamus-pituitary-adrenal) and the sympathetic nervous system, both of which have evolved to deal with the 'normal' short-term stress associated with the natural lifestyle of the species. These systems control the release of hormones that prepare the individual to face a challenge, often referred to as the fight/flight response or acute stress response.

However these systems are less well adapted to dealing with chronicor long term stress and this is the type of stress that plays a significant role in the development of behavioural problems and stress-related disease in cats.

Why are some cats more prone to developing chronic stress than others?

The ability of the individual to cope with challenges depends on both genetic and environmental factors. The development of the physiological systems involved in the stress response starts before a kitten is even born and if the mother is stressed during pregnancy or receives poor nutrition then her litter may be more prone to developing stress, and the non-adaptive coping strategies that form the basis of many of the common behaviour problems.

A lack of early socialization and opportunities to experience the sights, sounds and smells of a typical domestic home environment may also result in life being very challenging later on.

How can I recognise stress?

Acute stress

Acute stress may be caused by an unexpected incident or threat and is relatively easy to recognize in cats.

Many of the following signs may be evident:

• Immobility
• Body – crouched directly on top of all fours, shaking
• Belly – not exposed, rapid breathing
• Legs – bent
• Tail – close to the body
• Head – lower than the body, motionless
• Eyes – fully open
• Pupils – fully dilated
• Ears – fully flattened back on the head
• Whiskers – back
• Vocalisation – plaintive miaow, yowling, growling or silent
• Hissing, growling, shaking, drooling
• Involuntary urination, defecation
• Aggression if approached

Chronic stress

Chronic stress is more difficult to recognise as it can develop over a long period of time and the signs may be more subtle; it is more likely to affect patterns of behaviour and routines, such as:

• Inhibition of feeding, grooming, urination & defecation or over-eating (dependent on personality type)
• Increased resting or ‘feigned’ sleep
• Hiding
• Increased dependency or social withdrawal (dependent on personality type)
• Defensive aggression towards people/cats
• Extreme vigilance and heightened startle response (jumping at the slightest noise)
• Lack of play activity
• Changes in general patterns of behaviour e.g. spending significantly more time indoors, irrespective of normal seasonal changes
• Inappropriate urination or defecation
• Urine spraying indoors
• Over-grooming, pica (wool eating)
• Increased facial rubbing, scratching on surfaces
• Displacement activity (repetitive out-of-context behaviour)
• Redirected aggression (onto a target that is not the original source of threat)
• Ambivalent behaviour (approach/withdraw, conflicting signals occurring almost simultaneously)

What stresses cats?

Factors that can potentially cause your cat stress may be found in its interaction with both people and the environment but a significant proportion of the stress experienced by cats relates to their own species.

If your cat is sharing resources with cats it does not get on with, it could be a constant nightmare, as could living in a neighbourhood where the cat population is high.

Unfortunately some owners can inadvertently play a role in increasing their cats’ stress levels. Some owners can be intrusive physically in the way they behave, wanting more contact with their cats than is reciprocated. Some owners may be inconsistent in their approach, leaving their cats uncertain of how to respond at any time.

The environment may well be the last thing you consider when assessing the welfare of your cat, as humans tend to perceive safety and love as being the most important provisions for their pets. However, being confined indoors or bored or having restricted access to hiding places or litter trays, for example, can be very stressful for some cats.

What can I do to help relieve or prevent stress in my cat?

If you can provide care for your cat that respects its needs, both as a species and an individual, you stand the best chance of preventing or reducing chronic stress. Always remember, things that stress your cat could be things that you don’t find worrying at all.

Cats, being responsible for their own survival, are constantly risk assessing, looking for the presence of threat and danger in every new location or social encounter. They are therefore reassured greatly if their lives consist of familiar routines and a degree of predictability as they know, historically, that these are safe. Being predictable in your behaviour and creating daily routines is a great stress buster.

The number of cats you keep should be considered carefully, particularly if the local area already has a significant resident cat population as this can represent additional pressure.

The number of resources you provide for your cat (or cats) within the home (i.e. food bowls, water bowls, litter trays, beds, hiding places, high perches, scratching posts, toys) should always be sufficient to satisfy needs. A good formula to use in order to calculate the appropriate quantity is “one per cat plus one extra, positioned in different locations”. Getting the relationship with your cat right is always a challenge, and being sympathetic to its particular emotional requirements as an individual is the key to stress-free living. A confident, social cat will always want more attention than a timid one, or one who didn’t have the appropriate socialization as a kitten. Allowing your cat to initiate contact between you is probably the easiest way to establish the quality and quantity of affection that is wanted.

If your cat is allowed outside then, if possible, the timing of any excursions should be left to the cat rather than you. If the territory is being ‘time-shared’ by a number of cats then there may be very specific times during the day when your cat will feel safe and others when the garden is a much more dangerous place. Cats have a complicated communication system using scent that relays a message about the timings when certain individuals are in the area and, on that basis, your cat will be the best judge of when it’s appropriate to have some fresh air! 

If your cat is kept exclusively indoors, a dynamic and challenging environment will provide exercise and entertainment, guarding against boredom and frustration. Cats need to behave like cats for emotional and physical health, so providing your cat with a setting that simulates a natural habitat, with objects to climb for example, will be essential.

It’s unrealistic to expect a life for your cat that has no potential stress triggers but appreciating what those triggers might be and keeping them to a minimum will reduce the likelihood of any problems developing as a result of chronic stress.

Article SOURCE.

Aggression between cats

Aggressive responses seen in pet cats are closely related to the natural behaviour of the species and are a normal part of predation, play and social conflict.

As a self-reliant species and solitary hunter the cat avoids physical conflict as a threat to survival, as any overt fighting could cause injury, inability to hunt and consequently death. The cat’s communication system: vocalisation, body posture, facial expression, scent marking, is used primarily to avoid conflict and diffuse tension, however, fighting will occur if the particular circumstances dictate that as the only option or even possibly when the aggressor is confident that the opponent will not retaliate.

There are a number of reasons why aggression will take place between cats, either within the home or in territory outside. Most cats will attempt to defend their home range, or at the very least the area they consider most significant to them, against invasion by others. Assertive cats in the neighbourhood may actively seek out opportunities to extend their territory and less confident cats represent easy targets. If cats are unable to or unsuccessful in the defence of their range then they could potentially become housebound as their boundaries have been pushed back so significantly that trips outdoors become too dangerous.

The cat flap or even an open door or window could potentially allow strange cats to invade the home and this can lead to aggressive behaviour from both parties. Surprisingly there are occasions when the invading force gets no opposition from the resident cat, but this is probably largely down to fear rather than a positive acceptance of the encounter. Any such invasions can also cause friction between members of the same cat household as it raises their anxiety and may potentially exacerbate rumbling tensions that have previously been maintained at a tolerable level. The sheer volume of cats in the neighbourhood can also have a similar effect as their presence becomes a pressure that they are powerless to overcome.

In disputes between incompatible cats within a multi-cat household kept indoors the same type of antagonistic interaction may take place and individuals become reluctant to venture out of one room except at very specific times as their territory becomes subdivided by the more confident cats. Active aggression (fighting) will occur if escape and avoidance opportunities are limited or absent. Some cats resort to active aggression quicker than others, dependent on their genetics, sex and early experiences.

Any household with breeding females may also experience episodes of aggression, particularly when queens are protecting their kittens. These environments can be hotbeds of tension, often displayed passively, as there is frequently a mix of entire and neutered cats. Females coming in and out of season within the group can put further strain on relationships.

Are some cats just more aggressive than others?
Aggression is not a diagnosis or a description of a cat’s temperament but a consequence of an emotional state. Certainly some cats may be more likely to be aggressive under challenging circumstances than others.

How can I recognise aggression between my cats, is it always about fighting?
Cats are very adaptable and they can share space in a home without having that important mutual bond. If there are several cats they may form cliques or splinter groups and cohabit by appearing to 'agree to disagree' and avoiding each other whenever possible. This doesn't mean that there won't be times when aggression is evident between members of separate factions to reaffirm who gets access to a particular resource at any specific time. This is when a cat may well employ passive bullying as a highly effective tactic of psychological rather than physical warfare.

Within any multi-cat group there will be potential bullies; all they need is a victim. A 'victim' is any cat who responds dramatically and with obvious apprehension to the posturing and threatening behaviour of another. The more the cat responds to this form of intimidation, the more the bully will 'up the game'. Some of the more determined types do not stop short of driving their victim from the home. These victims are the cats that develop stress-related illness as a result of the constant, unavoidable threat that the bully represents. You may recognise the signs of bullying, for example, staring, claiming resting places or access to your lap by physically pushing another cat away, pouncing on a cat while asleep, blocking thoroughfares, sitting directly in front of the cat flap to deny entry/exit or blocking access to an indoor litter tray. This can often be very subtle as the cat only needs to position itself somewhere between the other cat and the resource to block access; to the casual observer this just looks like a cat having a rest in a perfectly harmless location.

What’s the difference between play fighting and the real thing?
Many bonded cats enjoy play fighting and will chase each other, roll around and bat each other with their paws. Play fighting is often silent, with plenty of gaps in between as each cat repositions itself. The biting is gentle and causes no injury or pain to the recipient and the claws are usually retracted. There is no reason to break a play fight if it continues at this level. Play fighting can, on occasions, escalate and any hissing or screeching could indicate that one is getting a little too rough for comfort. There will also be a rapid recovery to normal after play fighting and no obvious tension between the pair at other times.

How can I stop my cats being aggressive towards each other?
Inter-cat aggression in a household can potentially be managed by identifying the primary trigger and attempting to remove it. If the trigger is tension between members resulting from their incompatibility or constant competitive challenges, then the environment can be adapted to include additions that may limit the need for such constant conflict. It has to be remembered that these may well have become incompatible cats and re-homing one or more should not be ruled out as it could be the kindest option for all concerned, however that doesn’t stop you trying to achieve peace.

There is no ‘quick fix’ for aggressive behaviour and the best advice is to contact your veterinarian to discuss a referral to a behaviourist. You may find it useful also to follow this general advice. All ‘cat resources’ (feeding areas, water bowls, litter trays, beds, toys, scratching posts, high places to rest and private places) should ideally be provided in the formula ‘one per cat plus one extra, positioned in different locations’ to ensure all members perceive them to be in plentiful supply. If you have accurately identified separate social splinter groups, such as a couple of cats that have clearly paired up, and space is limited within the home then ‘one per social group plus one extra’ may be sufficient.

Part of the cats’ normal dry food ration can be distributed to a number of new permanent feeding ‘stations’ to give a sense of abundance and enable the cats to consciously decide an appropriate time to feed. Wet food can also be distributed in this way by providing frequent smaller meals to avoid competition at set mealtimes. The bowls should be positioned in such a way that each cat can eat without the need to turn its back on a potential adversary. Water is also an important resource to cats and several bowls placed in different locations throughout the home, away from the food, will potentially encourage the cats to visit more frequently.

Even if the cats have access outdoors it is wise to provide indoor litter facilities. If there is any bullying going on outside in the territory then it gives them the option to toilet in comparative safety indoors. If it is practically possible the provision of two separate entry and exit points to a property, i.e. cat flaps, doors or windows, avoids the risk of guarding or blocking, enabling even the most timid cat to get in or out unhindered.

Scratching posts should be located near entrances, beds and feeding stations to ensure an appropriate surface is available in areas of potential competition as cats will often scratch when others are around as a means of communicating territorial rights. Cats often prefer to observe activity from a high vantage point as this gives a strong sense of safety so plenty of opportunities to reach high places should exist. Private places must also be considered as every cat requires solitude and a safe place to rest, away from the risk of attack. Warm beds are also worthy of defence so the appropriate number should be available to avoid disputes.

My cats have suddenly started fighting, what should I do?
If the inter-cat aggression manifested itself in intense fighting between two individuals then the safest option is to separate them into different rooms for 24-48 hours until they have both calmed down. If a re-introduction at that stage still results in active fighting it may be necessary to segregate them for a longer period and treat them like complete strangers meeting for the first time. (click here for information on introducing a cat to a cat).

Episodes of aggression can occur at the most unlikely times when owners are often ill-prepared, one typical example is the reaction of the group to the return of a single member from a trip to the vet’s surgery. Cats communicate predominantly using their sense of smell, and the familiar communal odour that a group of cats create helps to bond them. That scent changes when one cat takes a trip to the vet and acquires a mix of threatening and unpleasant smells from the surgery. This can cause a dramatic response when the cat is brought home and the others fail to recognise their companion. To avoid this happening to your cat family, keep the returning cat in a separate room initially for at least the first twelve hours (or overnight) to enable it to groom to re-establish a familiar odour. You can assist this process by stroking and generally giving affection but be careful not to over fuss a post-operative patient. Be guided by the veterinarian or nurse who will give you the appropriate aftercare advice.

Why did my cat attack its companion when it saw a strange cat through the window?
Cases of re-directed aggression from one cat to another, triggered by an acute sense of threat from an external source, are also relatively common if there are underlying tensions. Cats have a very keen survival instinct that utilises an internal system referred to as the fight/flight mechanism that releases adrenaline, pumping the muscles full of blood, to prepare the body for danger. This massive emotional response can be triggered by a sudden sound or movement or the sight of another cat through a window but the ‘attack’ may be accidentally launched towards an innocent cat if they happen to be in the wrong place at the wrong time. Relationships between two cats in a household can be irretrievably damaged under these circumstances. Once again, the advice is to separate them into different rooms for 24-48 hours until they have both calmed down. If a re-introduction at that stage still results in active fighting it may be necessary to segregate them for a longer period and treat them like complete strangers meeting for the first time. (click here for information on introducing a cat to a cat)

If I introduce another cat to my existing one, will they fight?
Any additions to existing cat groups can trigger aggression as it is perfectly normal for cats to resist the introduction of others to their ‘colony’, particularly if the newcomer is a mature adult.

My cat is being beaten up by another cat in the area, what should I do?
Some territorial aggression exceeds what is considered by most to be acceptable. These cat bullies are often described as ‘despotic’ as they appear to actively seek out territory defended by others to claim it as their own. They will enter houses, located over a wide area, attack the resident cats (and the owners sometimes if they get in the way) and spray mark vertical surfaces with urine before departing. The victims rarely fight back as a ‘despot’ will choose them wisely and often pick relentlessly on the old, infirm or timid cats in the neighbourhood. In the UK some pedigree cats, such as the Burmese and more recently the Bengal, represent a surprisingly large percentage of the reported perpetrators. Entire tom cats (‘despots’ are usually male) are also likely to behave in a similar way as will any domestic non-pedigree that is particularly territorial.

This can be extremely distressing, particularly as attacks occur within the cat’s own home, and there is always the temptation to demand that steps be taken by the owner of the bully, as that person is solely responsible for preventing future attacks. It is entirely appropriate that these measures are put in place, but the unpopular truth is that the victim’s owner must also take reasonable steps to protect his or her property. The victim cat is  clearly unable to deter intruders or defend its own territory so the owner have to intervene in this case.

There is some debate about whether or not these bullying cats are behaving abnormally for the species but, regrettably, there is little evidence to suggest that their behaviour is anything but normal for the cat as a territorial species. Domestic non-pedigree cats  or ‘moggies’ have been selectively bred over many thousands of generations to moderate their territoriality in order to live in built-up areas in close proximity to other cats. Expression of territorial behaviour is all a matter of degree and cat owners all over the world should be grateful that this is not a more common occurrence.

It is important, first of all, to establish whether the problem-causing cat is owned and that it is neutered. If there is no evidence of an owner it may be possible to request assistance for humane trapping, neutering and re-homing.

If an owner can be located then it might be helpful to mutually agree that the despotic cat should be confined indoors at night, if the fighting and property invasion occurs during the hours of darkness. The owner can feed the cat a late night treat to give some incentive to come in by a certain time. If the attacks occur during the day then the curfew hours should reflect that. If your cat is not the only victim then all neighbours with cats that have been attacked should be informed that the aggressor is confined at specific times so that they know when their own cats are safe. It would be useful for the despotic cat to have a couple of bells attached to its collar so neighbours and their cats can hear it coming and take any necessary action if the curfew is broken.

Your cat may find it reassuring if you block up your cat flap by locking it and placing a solid board over both aspects or close any doors or windows through which the aggressive cat entered the house. The aggressor’s route into the garden should be established and blocked where possible. Your cat can then be escorted into the garden if it shows interest in going out but an indoor litter tray should also be provided. If your cat wants free access outdoors in the future an exclusive entry system cat flap should be installed. Unfortunately no device will exclude the most determined cats from invading.

The aggressive cat’s home should be adapted to ensure it is provided with appropriate stimulation and resources as enforced confinement could be stressful. Sufficient warm beds should be located around the house to give the cat every opportunity to sleep to fill the void of activity. Active play sessions should be introduced to use up energy, particularly early morning and evening or at other times when it is normally most active.

Some despotic cats are very determined to behave in this way and often the only way to resolve the heated disputes that arise between neighbours is to re-home them to areas with low cat populations.

My cat’s been in a fight, what should I do?
If you are aware that your cat has just been fighting it is best to confine it indoors but not to give too much attention to start with - cats can be very aroused when they have just been fighting and they are best left alone until they calm down.  Superficial cuts and scratches are common and easily seen, but bite wounds are often difficult to detect as a cat’s teeth puncture the skin causing deep but narrow holes that quickly heal over, trapping bacteria inside. If your cat hides, appears listless or withdrawn or lame after a fight then you should consult your vet as it may have a bite abscess.

Am I liable for veterinary bills if my cat attacks someone else’s cat?
While inter-cat disputes are accepted by most owners as inevitable, on rare occasions the consequences can become serious – particularly in those cases where frequent injuries are inflicted by one particularly assertive individual. These disputes between neighbours can escalate and lead to threatening behaviour and even, in extreme cases, police involvement. The legal responsibility will vary from country to country and, in the UK, for example there are very few cases, if any, that have gone to court regarding a claim for damages as a consequence of a cat fight.

Article SOURCE.

Why do cats scratch?

Cats scratch with their front claws by dragging them downward, either on a horizontal or vertical surface - this action, referred to as stropping, loosens and removes the outer husk of the claw revealing a sharp new surface underneath.

It also exercises the muscles of the forelimbs and spine to keep the cat in tip top condition for hunting. Some cats will scratch by lying down and pulling their bodyweight along the floor. The surfaces chosen are usually fixed and non-yielding to resist the force exerted by the cat. 


Scratching is also used as a form of territorial communication or marking behaviour. Scent and sweat glands in between the pads of the feet mix to produce a unique smell. When claws are scraped down a surface the scent is deposited and the combination of the mark, discarded claw husks and the smell provides a strong visual and scent message to other cats.

Evidence of scratching outdoors can often be found on trees, fence posts, sheds and wooden gates, for example, all strategically important locations in a cat populated area. Similar surfaces outside will also be utilised for claw maintenance. Unvarnished woods and tree bark are the most natural surfaces to scratch as they provide a perfect level of resistance to the action and show a strong visual cue when used regularly. 

Why does my cat scratch indoors?
Many cats nowadays have limited or no access to outdoors. There are also those that choose to spend more time in the comfort and safety of the home and just feel more relaxed about maintaining their claws in a secure environment!

Scratching can also be used as a precursor for play or even as an attention seeking tool by the more manipulative and social individuals. Popular substrates indoors include soft woods (e.g. pine), fabrics, textured wallpaper and carpet. Popular locations include doorframes, furniture and stairs.


Cats will often scratch vigorously in the presence of their owners or other cats as a sign of territorial confidence.

How do I know if the amount of scratching my cat does is normal?

If the scratched locations are widespread throughout the home, particularly around doorways and windows, then it is likely that your cat is signalling a general sense of insecurity. Whether the scratching represents claw maintenance, marking or both depends on the dynamics of your cat household, the pattern of locations and various other factors. Even if the level of scratching is normal for your cat, if attractive scratching posts or areas are not provided indoors it is likely that damage will occur to furniture, wallpaper or carpet!

Article SOURCE.

Click HERE to learn how to stop your cat scratching your furniture or carpets.

The vomeronasal organ

Cats have 2 organs of scent
1. the nose
2. the vomeronasal organ

Odours are so important to a cat's survival that they have a second organ of scent called the vomeronasal or Jacobsen's Organ enabling them to 'taste' significant smells.

This organ consists of two small apertures behind the front teeth in the roof of the mouth that connect to the nasal cavity. The cat opens its mouth and draws the air into the apertures; the facial expression adopted at this time looks like a kind of grimace and is referred to as the Flehmen response.

How to fit a collar for your cat

Click HERE to read "Does my cat need a collar"

Does my cat need a collar?

Walk into any pet shop, or even supermarket, and you will see a variety of different collars for cats – from reflective to diamante, leather to fabric and, of course, some flea collars too. This can make it confusing and difficult to know what type of collar to buy your cat, so we have compiled some information and advice on cat collars, looking at if your cat really needs one, what injuries they can potentially cause and which collars are the safest option for cats.

Reasons for cat collars

• Identification

Although microchipping is the safest and most permanent method of identification, some owners use collars and tags as a means to visibly show that a cat has an owner. Tags are used to list the owner's details - some owners worry that if the cat was lost or injured, that the cat would not be checked for a microchip, so the tag gives a quick easy way to contact the owner.

• Cat flap activation

Until recently the only way to make a cat flap selective (so that only your cat could open it and no intruder cats could enter ) was to use a magnetic or electronic key attached to its collar. Now there are cat flaps which are activated by the cat’s microchip, allowing selective entry and negating the need to wear a collar.

• Reducing hunting

Some owners also want to minimise the number of birds and other wildlife their cats catch and work done by the RSPB has shown that attaching a tinkly bell to the cat's collar can reduce the number of birds which cats catch. Using a bell may not entirely stop cats catching wildlife, but in some cases it can be an option.

• Flea control

Many flea collars available through pet shops or supermarkets contain permethrin or organophosphates.  Although the concentration of these chemicals is low and the collars are licensed for use on cats, in principle, International Cat Care would not recommend putting permethrin or organophosphates on a cat. There are now many new flea products which use alternative chemicals which are safer and more effective. Many can be applied as spot-ons – small volumes of liquid put onto the skin after parting the hair at the back of the neck.  They are highly effective and usually last for a month.

• Increasing visability

Collars with reflective strips can helps cats that are out in the dark be seen, especially if they are crossing a road.

• Looking pretty

International Cat Care does not agree with collars for cats which are purely for adornment – there is no added benefit and the risks are still there. Besides, cats are beautiful enough!

What injuries can collars cause?
minor problems, such as hair loss due to rubbing or a reaction to a chemical in a flea collar
injuries caused by the cat getting the collar caught around its jaw
injuries caused by the cat getting one front leg stuck through the collar (this allows the collar to cut into the skin, resulting in a serious and painful injury that is also particularly challenging to treat)
strangulation by becoming hooked on something and the collar not coming off or breaking open
problems cause by attachments (bells, discs etc) or poor stitching.

Why do injuries occur?
Problems occur with cats and collars for a variety of reasons:

• The collar is fitted poorly

A collar that is too loose can allow the cat to get its leg or jaw stuck through Collars that are too tight can also cause injury, so owners should be aware of how to fit a collar correctly.

• Collars with elastic inserts

Collars that have a length of elastic as part of the design (allowing them to expand) can also cause serious injuries. While, many years ago, this was thought to be a safety feature that would allow the cat to wriggle out of the collar should it become hooked on something, in fact what happened was that there was enough ‘give’ for cats to get one leg through the collar and then get stuck, causing serious injuries.  Collars also got caught around cats’ jaws. International Cat Care would advise never to put a collar with an elastic section on your cat.

Poor quality collars
The stitching on poor quality collars can become loose. This can then be swallowed or become wrapped around the cat’s tongue, which is dangerous.

What can owners do to help keep cats safe?

• Choosing the right collar

If you have decided that you do want or need your cat to wear a collar, ensure you pick a collar with a ‘snap open’ mechanism – a plastic buckle which comes apart and releases the cat if it becomes trapped. Owners of adventurous cats may lose a few collars but will keep their cats! Some snap open fastenings open more easily than others, so try them out and choose one that doesn’t require excessive force to open.

• Fitting the collar properly

Knowing how to fit a collar correctly is important. You should be able to get 2 fingers between the collar and the cat’s neck. Check this on a regular basis, especially if your cat is growing or its weight is changing.

Click HERE to see how tofu a collar correctly.

• Getting used to a collar

As with many things, getting your cat used to wearing a collar as a kitten is much easier than putting one on an adult cat for the first time.

Conclusion
Collars can cause injury to cats, but if your cat needs to wear a collar, then a snap-open one (which will release quickly if your cat become stuck) is best.

Article SOURCE.

How to Find Cat Urine with a U.V. Light